135 odgovorov v temi

[urban]

Odločil sem se, da na BMW E90 320d M optik namestim vzmeti Eibach. Namestil jih bom pri podjetju Amortizer d.o.o.

Odločiti pa se ne morem sledeče:
- Ali namestiti vzmeti Eibach Pro-kit 30/25,
- Ali namestiti vzmeti Eibach Sportline 45-50/35?

Avto ima M podvozje, ki se serijo nižje za 1.5cm, ter platišča 18 col. Ne vem, v kombinaciji s katerimi vzmetmi bi M podvozje najbolje delovalo?

Prosim za kakršnakoli mnenja, priporočila, … Hvala v naprej.

Urejal urban, 02.10.2012, 14:44.

[izzyd]

Ne vem ti svetovati, ampak se priporočam za kako fotko, ko boš poštimal, da se potem lažje odločim za menjavo na mojemu:)

[klobasa]

Z menjavo samih fedrov boš lego samo pokvaril! Bo pa izgled nekoliko boljši! Menjaš komplet podvozje ali ne menjaš nič!


lp

[athlon]

Odločil sem se, da na BMW E90 320d M optik namestim vzmeti Eibach. Namestil jih bom pri podjetju Amortizer d.o.o.

Odločiti pa se ne morem sledeče:
- Ali namestiti vzmeti Eibach Pro-kit 30/25,
- Ali namestiti vzmeti Eibach Sportline 45-50/35?

Avto ima M podvozje, ki se serijo nižje za 1.5cm, ter platišča 18 col. Ne vem, v kombinaciji s katerimi vzmetmi bi M podvozje najbolje delovalo?

Prosim za kakršnakoli mnenja, priporočila, … Hvala v naprej.

absolutno KW

[urban]

Z menjavo samih fedrov boš lego samo pokvaril! Bo pa izgled nekoliko boljši! Menjaš komplet podvozje ali ne menjaš nič!


lp

sem malo bral po tujih forumih in tudi na tem, pa vsi pravijo, da kombinacija m podvozje in eibach pro-kit izboljša lego

[urban]

absolutno KW

prosim za argumente

[K.G. BMW]

kar se izgleda tiče sportline, kar se pa praktičnosti tiče pa sigurno pro-kit;)
jaz mam na svojem -30/-25 in bi ti priporočal isto... sicr bi rad videl, da je še mal nižji, ampak v določenih situacijah je že zdej prenizek...

Urejal K.G. BMW, 02.10.2012, 21:05.

[stench]

Podani centimetri mislim da znižajo avto obično serijo 3 brez Mpodvozja, ker je M 1,5cm nižji, bodo tudi eibachi znižali avto za toliko manj.

Drugače pa moje mnenje. Će menjaš z nižjimi fedri nujno menjaj še amortizerje ali jih vsaj stršaj, ker v nasprotnem primeru bo nižji feder nestršani amortizer preobremenil.

Jaz drugega kot gevind ne bi gor dajal.

[K.G. BMW]

Podani centimetri mislim da znižajo avto obično serijo 3 brez Mpodvozja, ker je M 1,5cm nižji, bodo tudi eibachi znižali avto za toliko manj.

[monty]

Podani centimetri mislim da znižajo avto obično serijo 3 brez Mpodvozja, ker je M 1,5cm nižji, bodo tudi eibachi znižali avto za toliko manj.

Drugače pa moje mnenje. Će menjaš z nižjimi fedri nujno menjaj še amortizerje ali jih vsaj stršaj, ker v nasprotnem primeru bo nižji feder nestršani amortizer preobremenil.

Jaz drugega kot gevind ne bi gor dajal.

To drži. Vedno se štejejo cm od serijskega avta (se pravi brez M podvozja). O tem sem veliko prebral na nemškem forumu. Izgled z eibach sportline je zelo dober, vendar ne vem kako je v praksi. Sam imam pro kit 30/25 in je ok.

[urban]

to sem omenil že na začetku

[urban]

Podani centimetri mislim da znižajo avto obično serijo 3 brez Mpodvozja, ker je M 1,5cm nižji, bodo tudi eibachi znižali avto za toliko manj.

Drugače pa moje mnenje. Će menjaš z nižjimi fedri nujno menjaj še amortizerje ali jih vsaj stršaj, ker v nasprotnem primeru bo nižji feder nestršani amortizer preobremenil.

Jaz drugega kot gevind ne bi gor dajal.

amortizerji pri M podvozju so trši kot pri navadnem

[stench]

To vem da so trši, samo dvomim da so toliko trdi, da bodo prenesli da so konstantno še bolj stisnjeni. Sej amortizer d.o.o. obvlada, vprašaj majstra kaj on priporoča.

P.S. A si dobil info glede distančnikov?

Urejal stench, 03.10.2012, 08:29.

[saso24]

@stench-original m-amortizerji zdržijo marsikaj, bodo pa ja se -1.5cm.
Sodelavec ima na navadnem podvozju 45 30 varjanto H&R in ne zabija, res pa je da ne bojo zdržal tok kot če bi imel že v orig. bolš amortizer

[athlon]

prosim za argumente

profi podvozja!
a nisi še nikoli slišal za kw?

[urban]

profi podvozja!
a nisi še nikoli slišal za kw?

to bi jaz lahko tebe vprašal

nisem vprašal kaj je to, ampak sem prosil za argumente, na tvojo izjavo.

KW so lahko tudi samo vzmeti, ne samo podvozja (vzmeti+amortizerji), in tukaj sprašujem za vzmeti, zato sem sklepal, da priporočaš KW vzmeti in ne Eibach, zato sem prosil za argument.

[athlon]

osebno bi menjal oboje,ne pa sam fedre

[SONiK]

Če je budget 200e +/- kolikor stanejo eibachi za omenjeno vozilo, kaj mu pod nos mečete neke profi amortizerje oz. zakaj sploh omenjati to. Res je, da je to priporočljivo ni pa spet tako hudičevo nujno.

Za 200€ pač ne moreš dobit in amoritzerjev in fedrov.. Če bi bil budget 500-1000€ bi se pa lahko menli o gewindah in podobno.

Urejal SONiK, 03.10.2012, 12:37.

[stench]

Ne mečemu mu pod nos. Če dela povprečne kilometre bo lahko amortizer spustil že v enem letu (odvisno od ohranjenosti amorzizerja) in potem bo imel dvojni strošek. Zabijalo ga pa ne bo, samo dolgoročno samo nižji fedri niso rešitev. Sploh ker avto ima 1,5tone.

Je pa tudi možno da ne bo imel problemov. Naj mu amortizer še strša ali vsaj obnovi stare amortizerje (čeprav meni so na bravotu njegovi obnovljeni amortierji spet spustili).

[Debitel]

Še enkrat:

Citiram res dober sestavek o eibach PRO z enega drugega foruma:

Go with the EIBACH lowering springs.

Here's why...

When you are trying to decide between 2 different lowering springs you have to figure out what is more import to YOU first.

Individuals are different and this is what I caution my local clients against. Don't follow the crowd to closely as it may not be what you are looking for exactly.
The first step is too understand the differences in the lowering springs out there and then make the call based on what appeals to you more as a potential buyer.

Here is a brief overview of the differences between the H&R sport and Eibach lower springs:

H&R - Uses a very stiff 54SiCr6 alloy spring steel that has a higher progressive spring rate than the Eibach springs. That results in less body roll and firmer more precise suspension control. It also reduces the travel of the struts and shocks more than the stock (OE) springs. You gain more control over the suspension movement at the expensive of ride quality.


Eibach - Uses a high strength, high toughness spring steel called "Hi-Ten" in their Pro-Kits. The progressive rate of these springs is not quite as stiff as the H&R sport springs. Eibach focuses more on engineering a balance between ride quality and precise suspension control. Eibach springs will provide the exceptional handling and precise vehicle responsiveness and stability with minimal effect to the ride quality. Eibach engineers are very good at achieving that perfect balance. (optimizing handling vs. ride quality) Eibach springs are designed to allow the suspension to move in a controlled and predictable manner, and they do not compress the OE struts and shocks too much. That can lead to ride harshness that you won't particularly like.

There is a breaking point in regards to aftermarket lowering springs. A spring kit that lowers the vehicle too much, will inadvertently restrict the suspension travel, which results in a less comfortable ride and uneven handling characteristics. The vehicle may skip over bumps and road transitions, causing the tires to loose contact (adhesion/traction) with the road surface. A race prepared vehicle has a chassis and suspension designed for use solely on racetracks. The requirements for an everyday, street-driven vehicle that encounters potholes, expansion joints, weathered tarmac etc. are completely different. Eibach spring kits lower the vehicle center of gravity properly while properly maintaining adequate suspension travel. They have resisted the urge over the years to offer a more "aggressive" drop to their lowering spring kits, and in discussions with their chief engineer a few years ago...I think I know why that is the case. Eibach believes (and I tend to agree) that lowering a vehicle too much is counter-productive, because you will likely end up riding on the bump stops. This is compounded by the fact that OE shocks do not respond very well to being compressed more than the factory springs would allow under normal circumstances. The ride quality will decrease as a result. Eibach Pro-Kits are designed to work with original equipment shocks and struts. The lowering springs MUST NOT impede the suspension travel beyond a certian point...if you want to maintain good performance, and ride quality. (at the same time)



Bottom Line: Every suspension set-up is a critical balance between two contradictions:

Making it as soft as possible...while maintaining some measure of control. (which requires some spring stiffness) Finding that balance between the smooth softer initial characteristic for increased traction and comfortable cruising, while also maintaining a stiffer final progressive rate (as the spring compresses under load) for reduced body roll and better responsiveness under curving, braking and accelerating. That's a very difficult combination to pull off.

I'm a true believer in Eibach springs because they have always performed as advertised over the years. I have had Eibach pro kit on my cars since I bought my first E36 M3 in 1997. I also had them on my E46 M3 as well.

Eibach manufactures the best performance spring kits on the market in my opinion.